How Burnham Park became the hub of Baguio City.
Burnham Park, a 32.84-hectare urban green space in the heart of Baguio City, Philippines, stands as a symbol of the city’s evolution from an indigenous Ibaloi settlement to a colonial hill station and modern tourism hub. Located at an elevation of approximately 1,500 meters in Benguet province, this park—named for American architect Daniel Hudson Burnham—embodies over a century of planning, conflict, and renewal. Its history traces the interplay of native heritage, American urban ambition, wartime disruption, and postcolonial resilience, making it a cornerstone of Baguio’s identity.
Precolonial Roots: The Ibaloi’s Kafagway
Before Burnham Park’s lawns and artificial lake existed, the site was part of Kafagway, a grassy plateau in the Cordillera highlands inhabited by the Ibaloi people. Archaeological evidence suggests Ibaloi presence in Benguet dating back to at least 1000 BCE, following Austronesian migrations from Taiwan around 4000–2000 BCE. Kafagway, meaning “grassy clearing” in Ibaloi, served as a grazing ground for cattle and a hub for gold panning along nearby streams like the Balili River.

The Ibaloi, skilled miners and traders, exchanged gold dust and forest products with lowland Ilocanos, fostering a precolonial economy documented in oral traditions and early Spanish chronicles.



Spanish explorers, including Juan de Salcedo in 1572 and Diego de Ronquillo in 1620, probed the region for its rumored wealth but failed to impose lasting control. Ronquillo’s establishment of La Trinidad, just 4 kilometers north of Kafagway, in 1620 marked the closest colonial outpost, yet the area of modern Burnham Park remained untouched by permanent structures, its swampy terrain suited only to Ibaloi pastoral use.



American Colonial Vision: Burnham’s Blueprint
The park’s modern history began with the American occupation of the Philippines following the 1898 Treaty of Paris. In 1900, the U.S. established Benguet province under Act No. 48, designating Kafagway—renamed Baguio—as its capital. Seeking a cool retreat from Manila’s heat, the Philippine Commission declared Baguio the Summer Capital in 1903, holding its first session there in 1904 along what became Session Road.

A member of this commission was Dean Worcester whose many photograph are shown here.

In December 1904, Daniel H. Burnham, renowned for Chicago’s urban redesign, arrived in the Philippines at the behest of Secretary of War William Howard Taft.

Tasked with planning Baguio and Manila, Burnham spent six weeks surveying the Cordilleras, departing in January 1905. His “Report on Proposed Plan of the City of Baguio, Province of Benguet, P.I.,” submitted October 3, 1905, to Taft, envisioned a garden city for 25,000–30,000 residents, inspired by Washington, D.C.’s ordered layout. Central to this was a public park—initially dubbed “Meadow Park”—on the swampy valley south of Mount Mary Hill.

Burnham’s original map, housed in the Ryerson and Burnham Archives at the Art Institute of Chicago, outlined a 32-hectare green space with a rectangular artificial lake, radiating pathways, and lush gardens. He proposed aligning Baguio’s civic axis—City Hall to the north, an esplanade eastward—around this park, leveraging ridges for scenic boulevards.

Implementation Burnham’s plan fell to William E. Parsons, the consulting architect from 1905 to 1914, who drained the swamp, planted pines, and laid out initial paths, though funding delays stretched completion into the 1920s. By then, locals had rechristened it Burnham Park, honoring its visionary.


“The Burnham Lake finishing it’s construction as a man-made lagoon from the Minac Creek (background). The early business district of Baguio (before Session Road became the main) at Abanao in the foreground. At the left corner is the pioneer Baguio Commercial Company built by ex-governor Hubert Phelps Whitmarsh in 1906 where you can buy almost everything and next to it (electric post pointing V-shaped roof) is the Mountain Hotel owned by Walter Hansen. This area will be known as Baguio’s Chinatown.” (quoted from Dr. Alex Fangonil)


Early Development and Golden Age (1920s–1930s)
By the 1920s, Burnham Park emerged as Baguio’s social and recreational core. The artificial lake, fed by natural springs and rainfall, became a boating attraction, surrounded by rose gardens and dahlias thriving in Baguio’s temperate climate (averaging 18–20°C). Pathways, lined with Benguet pines, hosted American expatriates, Filipino elites, and Ibaloi converts drawn into the growing city—chartered in 1909 via Act No. 1963.



A pivotal addition came in 1938 with the Melvin Jones Grandstand, named for the Lions Club founder.

Groundbreaking records from the Baguio Midland Courier note its construction as a venue for civic events, from parades to cultural performances. By the late 1930s, the park mirrored Burnham’s intent—a communal space reflecting Baguio’s role as a colonial retreat and emerging Filipino city, with a population nearing 24,000 by the 1940 census.
World War II: Destruction and Resilience
The park’s golden era halted with Japan’s invasion in December 1941. On December 8, Japanese bombs struck Baguio, damaging Camp John Hay and scarring Burnham Park’s landscape—trees felled, the lake silted, and pathways cratered. During the 1942–1944 occupation, it served as a makeshift camp for Japanese troops, disrupting its civilian use. The 1945 liberation, culminating in the “Battle of the Zigzag” along Kennon Road, saw further destruction as American and Filipino forces reclaimed the city in April. Post-war photographs show a pockmarked park, its greenery reduced to stumps.


Post War Reconstruction and Expansion
Reconstruction began swiftly after independence in 1946. The Philippine government, with local support, replanted trees, dredged the lake, and restored facilities. After Philippine independence in 1946, with efforts to restore and expand Burnham Park aligning with Baguio’s resurgence as a tourism and administrative center. The Athletic Bowl emerged during this phase, driven by a growing population (24,000 in 1940 swelled to over 50,000 by 1950) and demand for modern amenities.
The Athletic Bowl was built and operational between 1949-1950, as documented in local historical accounts and corroborated by Baguio’s mid-20th-century urban planning records. The exact groundbreaking date is less clear due to limited surviving primary sources from the period, but its opening aligns with postwar infrastructure projects under the administration of President Elpidio Quirino (1948–1953). The Athletic Bowl occupies the southeastern quadrant of Burnham Park, near Jose Abad Santos Drive, integrating into the park’s layout. Its placement leveraged the park’s flat terrain, a rarity in Baguio’s hilly topography.
By mid 1950s, Burnham Park rebounded as a family haven, with added features like bicycle rentals and sail boats, the precursor to the current swan-shaped paddleboats—icons of its postwar revival. The grandstand resumed hosting events, including the first Independence Day celebrations, symbolizing resilience amid Baguio’s broader recovery.




Modern Era: Evolution and Challenges
Today, Burnham Park spans 32.84 hectares, divided into 12 distinct areas: the Lake, Rose Garden, Skating Rink, Children’s Playground, Orchidarium, Igorot Garden, Japanese Peace Pagoda, Pine Trees of the World, Sunshine Park, Athletic Bowl, Picnic Grove, and Melvin Jones Grandstand. Managed by the Baguio City government, it draws over a million visitors annually, bolstered by tourism data from the Department of Tourism-Cordillera (2023).
Yet, it diverges from Burnham’s full vision. The planned grand esplanade eastward shrank as urban sprawl—Baguio’s population hit 366,000 by 2020—encroached on green borders. Overcrowding, vendors, and traffic congestion challenge its tranquility, prompting periodic cleanups and redesigns, like the 2000s lake dredging. Despite this, it remains a vital public space, hosting festivals (e.g., Panagbenga) and daily recreation—skating, boating, and picnics.

Cultural and Historical Significance
Burnham Park encapsulates Baguio’s layered history. Its Ibaloi roots as Kafagway tie it to precolonial Cordillera life, while Burnham’s 1905 plan reflects American colonial ambition—only 60% implemented due to funding and terrain constraints, per urban historian Ethel Junto (2015). Wartime scars and postwar rebirth mirror the city’s grit, and its modern bustle showcases Filipino adaptation. The park’s lake, dug from a swamp, and its grandstand, built in 1938, are enduring symbols of this evolution.

Conclusion
From an Ibaloi grazing ground to a war-torn relic to a vibrant urban park, Burnham Park’s history reflects Baguio City’s transformation over centuries. Conceived by Daniel Burnham in 1905, shaped by Parsons, and reborn through local hands, it stands at the intersection of indigenous heritage, colonial design, and modern life. As Baguio navigates growth, this 32-hectare heart endures—a green legacy at the roof of the Philippines.